Village-hopping the sierras of the Axarquía: The Partial Traverse

 

A moderately challenging, mid-mountain trek through a spectacularly abrupt mediterranean mountain landscape characterised by impressive scenery of extensive pine forests; stark, precipitous mountain peaks and slopes; deep narrow gorges; and an astonishing variety of flora and fauna. This route gives the walker a unique opportunity to experience only the very best of the harsh and dramatic features typical of this area of the Natural Park and its beautiful mountain wilderness.

 
 

Highlights

  • 4 nights/5 days guided walking holiday in the exciting and mildly challenging and secluded territory of the mid- mountain regions of the sierras.
  • Beautiful, cross-country walking through some of the most spectacularly abrupt and harsh mountain scenery.
  • Diverse itinerary with discussions on the history, geography, culture, local traditions, and flora and fauna of the mountains, villages and the wider Axarquía region.
  • A good chance to spot some iconic wildlife such as the Spanish ibex, Bonelli’s eagle, Peregrine falcon and the Red-billed Chough.
  • An opportunity to summit one of the major peaks in the Natural Park (between 1500m – 1832m)
  • Pretty whitewashed villages of Arab origin perched on hillsides among citrus and almond groves, vineyards, and tropical fruit orchards.

 

Description

Beginning in the modestly sophisticated tourist resort of Nerja, with its sub-tropical fruit plantations sandwiched tightly between towering coastal peaks of over 1500m and the warm beaches on the Mediterranean coast, you will walk on three spectacular stages of the GR-249 – The Great Málaga Path, finishing in the pretty and relatively remote mountain village of Cómpeta, high up on the western fringes of the Sierra Almijara. Our route through the upper foothills of the entire southern flank of the sierra is typified by a classic mediterranean mountain environment that is an extremely abrupt and stark, but highly impressive landscape. Remarkably, there is a bewildering variety and concentration of flora and fauna adapted to the specific geological profile and the challenging climatic conditions. Aleppo and Pinaster pine dominate the poor dolomitic soils of the steep, exposed mountainsides, typically shared with mediterranean scrub and thicket. The many precipitous mountainsides and towering crags are the favourite territory of some of the more characteristic and conspicuous species of fauna, such as the Spanish ibex, the Golden and Bonelli eagles or the audibly conspicuous Red-billed Chough.

This specially styled route contemplates only the very best of this compelling scenery. Despite the aggressively harsh climate and terrain, there are infrequent instances where you will discover a hybrid landscape around the scant few populated sections of the walk – a welcome change from the dominant scenery where you will appreciate the pretty myriad of allotments, terraced orchards and gravity-defying vineyards on the surrounding hills. Although the terrain might sound tough and the scenery formidable and intimidating, the path we follow certainly is not. You will experience a highly enjoyable and manageable walk that should allow you to comfortably revel in the delights that this impressive and breathtaking itinerary has to offer.

 
 

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival at Nerja

You will be greeted on arrival at your accommodation in Nerja and we’ll have a briefing of the week ahead on the hotel’s pool terrace. This is also a good time to ask any final niggling questions in preparation for the start of the trek the following day.

Day 2: Nerja - Frigiliana

We kick things off with a lovely walk out of Nerja and an opportunity to admire some very interesting 19th century monuments and relics in the countryside on the way to the trailhead. Today’s itinerary involves crossing three beautiful valleys – the 5 kilometre long Barranco de la Coladilla gorge, the Río Chillar and the Río Higuerón. Although we walk through thick pine forest for most of the route, there are many vantage points along the way offering wonderful views of each valley and beyond. On the approach to Frigiliana, the vegetation thins out and you will appreciate some impressive mountain scenery of the precipitous cliffs and gorges of Almendrón (1515) and El Sol (1549), and the mountain peaks of Navachica (1832m) and El Cielo (1508m).
Rating: moderate       Distance: 15 km       Time: 5 hrs       Acc. ↑: 765 m       Acc. ↓: 600m

Day 3: Frigiliana - Acebuchal

We set off from Frigiliana on a leisurely stroll along the intricate network of backroads, country lanes and forest trails of the pretty Frigiliana countryside while constantly in the shadow of the infamous El Fuerte massif looming 1000m directly above us. This is not necessarily impressive mountain scenery, however, the walk through the countryside, with its many olive groves, mango and citrus orchards, farmsteads and allotments all along the route and dotting the hillsides in the distance, makes for very pleasant walking. After circumnavigating El Fuerte, we continue up an adjacent valley before arriving at the quaint and historic mountain hamlet of the lost village of El Acebuchal. What makes this little hamlet so interesting and special is its amazing transformation despite its controversial history.
Rating: easy       Distance: 15 km       Time: 4.5 hrs       Acc. ↑: 225 m       Acc. ↓: 75m

Day 4: Acebuchal - Competa

This is when things really start to get interesting. We catch an old trade route out of the hamlet to enter the scenic and immense mountain basin of the Paraje del Daire. The area is covered in forests of Maritime Pine and the occasional chestnut tree. Due to its large catchment area, crossing streams and tributaries becomes a frequent affair. Ascending a prominent ridge, we eventually rise to 1100 metres where we will join another historic trade route of the Camino del Puerto de Cómpeta (Path of the Cómpeta Pass). From this point on, you descend almost continuously to Cómpeta while following in the footsteps of the legendary muleteers who for centuries plied this dangerous mountain route. The many ruins of once profitable roadside inns, each with their own fascinating history, litter the sides of the narrow path – evidence of a roaring trade servicing not only the muleteers, but also the many bandits, outlaws and opportunists who lurked in waiting.
Rating: moderate       Distance: 18 km       Time: 7 hrs       Acc. ↑: 400m       Acc. ↓: 900m

Day 5: Departure from Cómpeta

Goodbyes and farewells. You will be collected from your accommodation and taken to Málaga airport for your return flight home.

 
 

 
 

Accommodation

The accommodation in Nerja, Frigiliana and Cómpeta is in 3* hotels located in the village centres. All lodgings are of a decent and respectable standard, clean and comfortable. Some villages and lodgings may offer additional services over others. The smaller hamlet of El Acebuchal, though more quaint, quiet and extremely rural, generally has fewer available services, facilities and supplies.

Nerja: 3* Nerja Club Hotel

The Hotel Nerja Club & Spa is located just on the leafy edge of town in one of the quietest areas of Nerja, and has outdoor and indoor pools, spa and gymnasium. Each of the hotel's 102 rooms has an en-suite bathroom, air conditioning, heating, overhead music, satellite TV and telephone, with most having a private terrace. During your stay you will be able to enjoy the pool, solarium and cafeteria with frequent live music. Enjoy buffet style breakfast and dinner with a wide range of international cuisine, fresh salads and desserts. The hotel has a great team of helpful and friendly staff who will make your stay as comfortable and pleasant as possible.
Website: www.hotelnerjaclub.com

Frigiliana: 3* Hotel Villa Frigiliana

The Hotel Villa Frigiliana is perfectly positioned in the centre of the award-winning village of Frigiliana, between the old historic Moorish quarter and the "new town". The hotel provides an excellent service and has 35 rooms with countryside and mountain views. All of the rooms are bright and comfortable with a smart, classic Spanish style decoration. They all have air conditioning, satellite TV, safe, and bathroom with hair dryer. There is also breakfast room service at extra cost.
Website: www.hotelvillafrigiliana.com

Acebuchal: mountain cottages with rural, rustic charm

The quaint and isolated hamlet of El Acebuchal was abandoned for decades after the Spanish civil war. In 1998, the village underwent restoration work championed by one of its original inhabitants. As a result of the careful and meticulous restoration work carried out, the hamlet has recovered all of its original features and authentic character, and provides seclusion, quiet and a unique experience in a mountain environment. El Acebuchal offers mountain cottages in a typical Andalucían country style, with rustic interior decoration and furnishings. All cottages are fully equipped with washing machine, oven, microwave, vitro-ceramic hob and fireplace in the sitting room, hot water shower, television and barbecue on the terrace, shared outdoor swimming pool and large garden area. Warning: the food served in this recondite hamlet is without doubt, second to none. It will literally blow your socks and boots off!
Website: http://www.elacebuchal.es

Cómpeta: 3* Hotel Balcón de Cómpeta

Competa is a bustling whitewashed village high up in the Axarquían hills, with brilliant views across the foothills of the Axarquía and superb views of the Mediterranean sea. The Hotel Balcón de Cómpeta is the largest and most fully equipped hotel in town and offers a wide range of services. It lies at the half-way point on our trek and is therefore the perfect place to spend a comfortable and well-deserved rest day. The hotel offers a choice of fully equipped, cozy bungalows set in its gardens; or formal rooms in the main building. Both types of accommodation are fitted with all modern conveniences: free Wi-Fi, king-size bed, TV, air conditioning, heating, safe, telephone, en suite bathroom with bath and shower (bungalows shower only), and a balcony overlooking the pool and countryside with views of the Mediterranean sea. There is also a tennis court, restaurant, cafeteria and an outdoor bar in the gardens. The food is of Spanish and international flavour and is very good.

Website: http://hotel-competa-hotelblue.webs3.mirai.es/

 
 

Summary of Key Points

1* Price
From €373 min. to €394 max./person sharing (excludes flights and travelling arrangements outside of Spain). Due to variations in hotel prices and other related services throughout the season, I have quoted a maximum and minimum price range to reflect these fluctuations as I endeavour to always offer you the best price and value for money. Prices vary mainly according to group size. Single supplement available.
2* Pricing Observations
The price quoted is based on an itinerary of 3 full walking days. If the group is ambitious and prefers 4 full walking days, an extra walking day that will include summiting a major peak (above 1300 m.) can be included at cost.
Dates
Available during season October – May only, however, flexible booking allows you to choose specific dates within the season to suit your requirements (dependent on availability)
Closing Booking Date
8 weeks prior to walking holiday start date, unless otherwise stated.
3* Group Size
Limited number of spaces available in order to maintain group safety and good walker/guide ratio.
Holiday Duration
4 nights/5 days, excluding the extra day. 
Grade of Walks
This walking holiday comprises of walks and hikes generally graded as moderate, with one of the walks graded as moderately challenging. Nevertheless, if you are interested in a walking holiday of an easier or more difficult grade, please contact me to discuss.
Level of Difficulty
3B – 4B (rating explanation)
Daily Walk Time
Varying between 6 – 9 hours of walking each day (includes stops for breaks, photos, lunch, etc.)
Total Walk Time
3 full walking days with complimentary and optional short morning and evening walks on arrival and departure days, respectively (dependent on flight arrival/departure times, and of course, group enthusiasm and consensus!)
Daily Walk Distance
Varying between 14 – 26 kilometres (linear route)
Total Walk Distance
66 km (linear route)
Acc. Height Gained
Average daily accumulated elevation gained: approx 970 metres.
Acc. Height Lost
Average daily accumulated elevation lost: approx 770 metres.
Walking Location
Along the eastern section of the southern flank of the Sierra de Almijara. 
Villages Visited
Nerja (1 night), Frigiliana (1 night), Acebuchal (1 night), Cómpeta (1 night)
Route Location
Along the GR-249 between Nerja and Cómpeta.
Start Location
Hotel Nerja Club, Nerja (map)
Finish Location
Hotel Balcón de Cómpeta, Cómpeta (map)
Risk of Vertigo
Minor risk
Recommendations
Walking/hiking boots are best and highly recommended as you will be traversing a variety of rugged terrain. Trainers or tennis shoes not acceptable or advisable; do so at your own risk. Decent/good level of fitness and stamina required. Appropriate clothing for the walking and weather conditions. Please also ensure that you are adequately insured for walking abroad before booking your holiday, and that you bring your European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) with you to Spain.
Additional Gear
Dependent on the season and prevailing conditions. These are just guidelines. Please enquire for more details: General: walking poles, lip balm, sunglasses, hat/cap, suncream. Autumn & Spring: suncream, light and loose clothing, waterproofs. Winter: wooly or warm hat, gloves, neck warmer, baselayers, fleece, waterproof clothing, waterproof boots, headlamp/torch.
Facilities
Lavatory, food, drinks, supplies, replacements, etc. available in each village along the route.
Observations
Please bear in mind that you will be walking over consecutive days on some rugged paths, through mostly moderate – challenging terrain. Therefore, good rhythm, personal management and attention to proper foot care on the part of each individual is essential. Also, a good level of stamina is just as important as a good level of fitness. It is also of the utmost importance to bring good, comfortable walking boots that have been broken-in, not to mention high quality socks. If concerned or in doubt, please enquire to discuss these issues with me. Your safety and comfort are my number one priority, apart from ensuring that you have a good time, of course! It is imperative that you have adequate insurance for walking abroad and most especially if you are a non-EU citizen. I may ask to see proof of your insurance before taking your booking.

1*  The price is quoted in euros. The price is based on a group size of 8 people for 4 nights. Bookings for groups of smaller sizes may incur extra costs to the final price. Similarly, larger group booking should benefit from an economy of scale. 
2* If the group is ambitious and prefers a 5-day walking itinerary, the extra walking day will be included at cost. The itinerary on the extra day could be either an easy day walk or a themed rural walk.
3*
   Also available on this walking holiday are itineraries of 4 and 10 nights for group sizes of between 8 – 40 people, split into two or three groups, and each group with its own guide.
 

What’s included and what’s not?

Included
–  Airport transfers to and from your hotel on arrival and departure.
–  4 nights in a variety of modern and rural accommodation, from 3* hotels to isolated mountain hamlets.

–  Accommodation on bed and breakfast basis (except on Day 3 when it is full board).
–  Packed picnic lunches on every walking day.
–  All baggage and ground transfers between hotels, including forwarding of bags and non-walking gear during the expedition ahead of our arrival at the next village.

–  Interesting itinerary with emphasis on history, geography, culture, flora and fauna.
–  Full-time service of a licenced, insured, First Aid qualified, British-trained Mountain Guide and Mountain Leader.
–  Andalucian Walks also has fully comprehensive public liability insurance.

Not Included
–  Flights to Spain
–  Travel insurance
–  Tips and gratuities
–  Specialist adventure travel insurance
–  EHIC (European Health Insurance Card)
–  Anything else not mentioned in the “Included” section