La Axarquía Rústica: An exploration of its cultural and rural heritage, historical traditions and quaint ways of life

You will be greeted on arrival at the airport and taken to your 3* Hotel Villa Frigiliana. We'll get together for a briefing of the action-packed week ahead, but not without some typical Spanish "welcome drinks and snacks." This is also a good time to clear up any last-minute niggling questions before setting off the next day.

Experience a day-in-the-life of a local farmer at his cortijo and traditional Axarquían farmstead high up in the hills above Frigiliana. Up winding paths and country lanes, nestled on a sunny ridge neatly tucked away amongst avocado and olive trees, you will see how old, rural traditions are still being faithfully followed. The Axarquía's farming traditions and ways of life go as far back as early Arab times during the 8th century. In fact, it is more than just a way of life, it is an identity. Though many have modernised their practices where possible, there are a rare few who have chosen to adhere to the traditional methods, even still using old wooden tools passed down through the generations. When you come here and see it for yourself, it may hit you or it may not. That cliché of "the land shaping the people" is true to form on these steep Mediterranean hillsides, for how could one ever possibly consider using a tractor when for centuries one has only ever used donkeys and mules to haul things around on the steep slopes; and employed oxen to pull the heavy ploughs on the mountainsides of forty-five degree gradients or more.

We set off from Frigiliana on a lovely walk through the countryside and its myriad of olive groves, citrus and mango orchards, vineyards, and avocado plantations, but never out of sight of the cool, azure Mediterranean sea. From these steep sun-baked slopes come the soft, smooth, fruity Verdial and Nevadillo olive oils; the deliciously sweet Axarquían dessert wines made from Moscatel and Pedro Ximén varieties, some with world renown; the enormous, succulent raisins from the again famous Moscatel grape variety; the rich, flavourful Mediterranean almonds; and the huge, juicy mangos, lemons and oranges. If you happen to be here between late August and mid-September, you can get a basket and help pick the grapes and get your feet sticky in the traditional "pisada" (stepping of the grapes). And if you happen to be here at the end of the year, then you'll most likely be expected to help in the picking of the olives, after which you can get some freshly pressed olive oil from the mill in the village. Enjoy a lovely lunch served on the terrace of the cortijo overlooking the fields and countryside while we talk about country life, history, traditions and other fascinating things.

Rating: moderate   Distance: 12 km   Time: full day   Acc. Height Gained: 300 m   Acc. Height Lost: 200 m

Follow in the footsteps of the brave muleteers who for centuries risked their lives plying one of the classic mountain trade routes of the sierras. Long mule caravans laden to the hilt with goods from the coast would laboriously work their way up and down precipitous, narrow mountain paths and through snow-swept passes to take goods to market 65 kilometres away in Granada and beyond. In the depths of winter, thick snow and ice made the journey perilous; the life of a muleteer was a hard one. Fortunately on this occasion, you will not have to risk life and limb navigating treacherous mountain paths as the section that we undertake is considered the easiest of the entire route, but no less exciting, conveniently stopping short of one of the most perilous sections of all - the formidable and narrow stretch leading up to the high Frigiliana Pass at an altitude of 1200 metres. During the walk, the muleteers will wax lyrical about all the interesting and fascinating stories of the mountains, the mule routes, the trials and tribulations of the profession, the anti-fascist guerrillas, the civil war and Civil Guard, stories of isolated mountain farmsteaders getting in and out of trouble, smugglers of contraband, opportunistic bandidos, and surreptitious and illicit activities, among many other compelling stories.

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Our convoy consists of sturdy pack mules to carry our supplies, gear, food, cooking equipment and water for the day. The highlights of the walk, apart from the rich and interesting stories, are our breakfast and lunch stops at the beginning and half-way points of our walk, respectively. Breakfast is at the location of a once well-patronised inn. Similarly, our lunch stop is perfectly situated for us to relax and enjoy a typical traveller’s mountain menu on the site of perhaps one of the most historic and famous mountain inns in the entire sierra. The location, setting and views are absolutely spectacular. In its heyday, the inn would have typically served Franco’s military forces by day, and surreptitiously catered to the needs of the anti-fascist guerrillas under the blanket of darkness at night. Standing on the site, you will appreciate why such dangerous moves were played out: the remoteness, isolation, difficulty of the terrain and the omni-present serenity is eerily captivating. As far as surreptition, intrigue and mountain warfare strategy goes, it really doesn’t get any better than this!

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Rating: moderate   Distance: 18 km   Time: full day   Acc. Height Gained: 500 m   Acc. Height Lost: 500 m

Today's itinerary literally breaks the mould on many fronts as you are taken on a journey of pure sensorial enlightenment for an insight into the exquisite world of haute cuisine and fine Málaga wines. Málaga was once in the vanguard of viticulture and wine making in the world during the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. Although it is not now so, it is nevertheless experiencing a silent but incredible revival producing some exceptional wines from some truly dedicated and passionate vineyards. There are numerous wine and raisin producers scattered around various grape-growing sub-regions of the province, with the most important region in Málaga by far for wine and raisin production being the Axarquía. The Axarquía has a very long history and tradition of grape cultivation and wine making. Top quality wines have been produced on these hillsides for millennia, first by the Phoenicians and then followed by the Romans and the Muslims, making it one of the oldest and most prestigious viticultural regions in Europe.

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Set within a labyrinth of valleys and steep intertwining hillsides typical of this area, there is a little bodega that creates sheer magic with grapes. Here they masterfully harness the natural vitality of the vines that flourish in the highly impoverished soils to produce an incredibly delicious and exciting range of fresh, delicate white, red and rosé wines. You will be led on a full guided tour of the vineyard and its facilities, including a short bout on the hillsides to engage in an interactive discussion of all aspects of grape cultivation. After the main tour, you will be invited to relax in the wine salon for an aperitif and to enjoy various guided and detailed wine tastings of four of the bodega's exquisite wines. Then for the main event, prepare yourself for a wine tasting experience like no other: an impressive gastronomic extravaganza in the form of a wine-centric lunch designed specially to pair perfectly with yet more delicious wines in order to highlight their attributes; and as always, accompanied by expert and attentive tutelage so that you understand all of the subtle complexities and vagaries of the moment. In case you didn't know, the wines that you will have the pleasure of enjoying can be found in dozens of Michelin starred restaurants in more than 10 countries across Europe and America as this little bodega continues to slowly and masterfully make an internationl name for itself. The final stop of the day is a short trip into Málaga to visit the oldest wine bar in the city that has held a Royal Warrant since 1850.

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Rating: easy Distance: n/a Time: full day Acc. Height Gained: n/a Acc. Height Lost: n/a

You are in for a very pleasant and interesting change to the usual itinerary as you put true meaning to the term “village-hopping”. This leg of the trek takes us to four peculiar villages: Canillas de Albaida, Salares, Sedella and Canillas de Aceituno. They are rich in cultural, historical, architectonic, rural features, and natural elements and details that give this leg the resounding vote for being the most interesting, engaging and feature rich section of the GR-249 within the Axarquía. You will be delighted by crossing the many rivers that cascade down the steep slopes in this part of the sierra, and walking over some spectacular bridges of Roman and Arab origin. We will take some time from the itinerary to visit various watchtowers from whose strategic locations you will appreciate stunning views of the surrounding mountains and the whitewashed villages clinging to the mountainsides in the distance. There are pretty terraced orchards around Canillas de Albaida, oak forests near the village of Salares, and pine woods close to Sedella. The alternating succession of rivers and woods, villages and historical bridges, and scenic mountain landscapes all combine to create one of the most picturesque and alluring legs of the GR-249.
Rating: moderate       Distance: 25 km       Time: 8.5 hrs       Acc. ↑: 1,070 m       Acc. ↓: 1,040 m

Since Muslim times, Colmenar has been very famous for the quality of its honey. Nowadays, it is one of the premier honey producing regions in the province of Málaga. Natural beauty abounds around Colmenar as it is surrounded by a bewildering array of hugely differing and spectacular natural environments: the mellow mountain region of the Montes de Málaga Natural Park; the beautiful, undulating olive-cloaked hills and valleys of the Alta Axarquía countryside; and the Sierra de Camarolos and its subsidiary ranges and outlying outcrops of domed limestone fortresses. Everywhere you look, there is a fascinating and soothing complexity of contrasts and colours that all combine to create a truly beautiful and memorable experience. Since Colmenar has the distinction of being the capital of the Montes de Málaga Natural Park, a lovely walk through the Montes de Málaga with instruction from your knowledgable guides would be a very fitting way to enjoy this beautiful area. We will begin our walk from a point in the Park that will give you an invigorating and interesting itinerary on the way to Colmenar. The Park is rich in flora and fauna, with 400 species of plants, 90 species of birds, 27 species of mammals, 19 species of reptiles and 8 species of amphibians. On arrival at Colmenar we will head over to one of the favourite local lunch spots, a mountain restaurant serving a simple but hearty four course country meal typical of the mountain villages of inland Axarquía.

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Our next stop will be the Bee and Honey Museum which also serves as the headquarters of the Malaga Beekeepers Association. You will be taken on a guided tour of the many impressive exhibits and displays, not to mention an audio-visual room where you will see a 14 minute presentation on bees, beekeeping and honey production in Colmenar. The group will also be able to take part in a honey-tasting session of the different types of honey produced in Málaga. You will then be led into the countryside on a field tour to identify the flowering plants important to bees and honey production, among other things. Donning your beekeeper protective suit, you will take part in an interactive demonstration of the hive and how it works, identification of the different types of bees, discussions on bee behaviour and organisation and other interesting topics.

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Important note: For the guided field tour and visit to the apiary, everyone in the group will be provided with a professional beekeepers suit which includes protective head gear and gloves. However, please ensure that you wear shoes or boots that completely cover and protect your feet (and if possible your ankles) from any potential bee stings. For those who know that they suffer with severe or life-threatening allergic reactions to bee stings, please take the necessary precautions and bring any relevant medications or the prescribed antidote, such as epinephrine.
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Rating: moderate Distance: 12 km Time: full day Acc. Height Gained: 200 m Acc. Height Lost: 200 m

If Periana’s countryside is the endearing heart of this region, then the deep and meaningful soul would have to be the countryside around Alfarnate and Alfarnatejo. If ever there were a walking paradise in Andalucía, this would be it, for the panorama is nothing short of amazing. The two villages are in desperately remote and paralysingly stunning countryside, situated in the far out-flung reaches of the province on the border with Granada. In centuries gone by, however, the villages lay strategically on the busy Málaga – Granada road and served as a very opportune stop-over point for many a traveller. However, what is now deemed to be a beautiful and peaceful landscape was in the old days a very dangerous passageway through the hills of the area, for the unique nature of the terrain made it a notorious refuge and staging ground for attacks from “bandoleros” who would always be lurking in ambush.
Rating: easy – moderate Distance: 20 km Time: 8 hrs Acc. ↑: 420 m Acc. ↓: 380 m

Goodbyes and farewells. You will be collected from your accommodation and taken to Málaga airport for your return flight home.

The Hotel Villa Frigiliana is perfectly positioned in the centre of the award-winning village of Frigiliana, between the old historic Moorish quarter and the "new town". The hotel provides an excellent service and has 35 rooms with countryside and mountain views. All of the rooms are bright and comfortable with a smart, classic Spanish style decoration. They all have air conditioning, satellite TV, safe, and bathroom with hair dryer. There is also breakfast room service at extra cost.
Website: www.hotelvillafrigiliana.com

The quaint and isolated hamlet of El Acebuchal was abandoned for decades after the Spanish civil war. In 1998, the village underwent restoration work championed by one of its original inhabitants. As a result of the careful and meticulous restoration work carried out, the hamlet has recovered all of its original features and authentic character, and provides seclusion, quiet and a unique experience in a mountain environment. El Acebuchal offers mountain cottages in a typical Andalucían country style, with rustic interior decoration and furnishings. All cottages are fully equipped with washing machine, oven, microwave, vitro-ceramic hob and fireplace in the sitting room, hot water shower, television and barbecue on the terrace, shared outdoor swimming pool and large garden area. Warning: the food served in this recondite hamlet is without doubt, second to none. It will literally blow your socks and boots off!
Website: http://www.elacebuchal.es

Competa is a bustling whitewashed village high up in the Axarquían hills, with brilliant views across the foothills of the Axarquía and superb views of the Mediterranean sea. The Hotel Balcón de Cómpeta is the largest and most fully equipped hotel in town and offers a wide range of services. It lies at the half-way point on our trek and is therefore the perfect place to spend a comfortable and well-deserved rest day. The hotel offers a choice of fully equipped, cozy bungalows set in its gardens; or formal rooms in the main building. Both types of accommodation are fitted with all modern conveniences: free Wi-Fi, king-size bed, TV, air conditioning, heating, safe, telephone, en suite bathroom with bath and shower (bungalows shower only), and a balcony overlooking the pool and countryside with views of the Mediterranean sea. There is also a tennis court, restaurant, cafeteria and an outdoor bar in the gardens. The food is of Spanish and international flavour and is very good.

Website: http://hotel-competa-hotelblue.webs3.mirai.es/

As far as your accommodation goes, just picture this: you will be staying in a charming little Axarquían hamlet perched on a cascading mountainside in a secluded rural setting, surrounded by olive groves and a wonderful view. The hamlet also has its very own bar and restaurant run by a local husband and wife team that prepares traditional Axarquían dishes, all served on a huge terrace overlooking the pool with magnificent views of the lake in the valley below. The locals are encouraged to treat the hamlet as their own and infrequently gather to strum guitars and enjoy Manolo’s amazing fish soup. The pool and opera fusion aside, there are no modern luxuries nor high-flying events here – just pure, rustic countryside charm infused into everything: the renovated stone and adobe-walled bungalows with their authentic Andalusian architectural appeal; the hamlet’s on-site rural bar and restaurant; the charming detail of reclaimed antique doors, windows, furniture and fittings; Moorish fixtures and old agrarian artefacts; the hamlet’s resident goatherd; the grapevine and bougainvillea-covered terraces; and the enjoyment you will get from the seclusion, ambiance and appeal that you would expect only from a place of this sort of natural charm and character.