NEW THEMED WALK!
AND A TOTALLY NEW EXPERIENCE!
|
Tour summary
|
Transfer from Nerja to the Axarquía. Short visit to the village of Sayalonga. Lovely, short walk up the valley to the bodega. Tour of bodega and facilities including sumptuous lunch and two wine tastings. Quick nip into Málaga to visit the oldest wine bar in Málaga. Return to Nerja. |
|
Price per person
|
€ 64 (includes private minibus charter for the day; guided walk through the hills; guided tour of vineyard, facilities and bodega; lunch at bodega; visit to one of the oldest bodegas/wine bars in Málaga city). |
|
Day & Time
|
Refer to walking calendar (walking calendar) |
|
Meeting Point & Start
|
Nerja bus station, Nerja (map) at 08:30 and setting off at 08:45 |
|
Finish Time
|
Approximately 19:00 at the main Nerja bus station |
|
Maximum Group Size
|
Very limited number of spaces available once the minimum group size has been achieved, in order to maintain group safety and good walker/guide ratio. |
|
Walking Time
|
1 hour approx. (includes stops for breaks, photos, etc.) |
|
Visit to bodega
|
3.5 hours approx. (includes two wine tastings and wine-centric lunch) |
|
Walking Distance
|
2 kilometres (linear route) |
|
Level of Difficulty
|
2 B (rating explanation) |
|
Route Location
|
The walk starts at the village of Sayalonga village and follows a path up the valley to the bodega. |
|
Height Gained
|
~100 metres |
|
Height Lost
|
~50 metres |
|
Risk of Vertigo
|
No |
|
Recommendations
|
Walking shoes or trainers/tennis shoes will suffice. Definitely no flip-flops, sandals or similar, please. A fair level of fitness required. Bring a bottle of water and appropriate clothing for the prevailing conditions and the season. Waterproofs, warm clothing, hat and sun cream dependent on time of year. |
|
Additional Gear
|
Camera |
|
Highlights
|
Visit to the village of Sayalonga; short guided walk through the hills to get to the wine bodega; wine tasting; stunning wine-centric meal; short trip into Málaga to pay a visit to the oldest wine bar in the city. |
|
Facilities
|
Lavatory, food, drinks, etc. available at Sayalonga, wine bodega and Málaga. |
|
Observations
|
Drinks at the bodega not included in the price, nor are they included in the visit to the wine bar in Málaga. |
Historical background of grape growing and wine production in Málaga
The first references to wine in the province of Málaga can be traced back to the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC. However, evidence of grape pips dating to the Tertiary period have led archaeologists to believe that grapes were first cultivated sometime between 4000 and 3000 BC. When the Phoenicians founded Mainake (a settlement believed to be somewhere near present day Vélez-Málaga) in 600 BC, they brought their knowledge and expertise in viticulture with them and established productive working vineyards in the very favourable climate. The Carthaginians would later make valid contributions, introducing new advances and ideas to the region, including the teachings of the early viticulturist, Mago. However, it was the Romans who really brought viticulture into prominence through their knowledge, testing of new techniques, research, and a viable commercial model. Under the Romans, Spanish wine developed into a widely exported and traded product throughout the Roman empire, with the two largest wine producing regions being modern-day Tarragona (southern Catalonia) in northern Spain, and modern-day Andalucía in the south. The Romans were also responsible for having planted most of the vines in existence up until that time.
In the early 5th century, the Roman empire began to enter into a steady decline, and Spain was invaded by Germanic Barbarian tribes from central and northern Europe. A lack of archaeological evidence as to the practice of viticulture during the barbarian occupation suggests that there may have been scant interest in viticulture by these people, or at least no significant advancements having been made. Nevertheless, there is evidence that some viable form of wine industry was present after the Moors invaded during the very early 8th century, suggesting that the practice was not neglected by them in the least. During Muslim rule, viticulture experienced a revival under the Moors’ sophisticated and learned culture. It is well known that the Muslims engaged in viticulture to satisfy their enjoyment of eating fresh grapes and raisins. However, historical documents also depict a surprising paradox: clear evidence shows that Muslim rulers and society were extraordinarily tolerant of the engagement by non-Muslims in wine production and the consumption of alcohol, despite it being strictly prohibited by Quran laws. In fact, several caliphs and emirs owned vineyards and drank wine, and many drank alcohol under the guise of a having a “medicinal” potion. As peculiar as it may seem, alcohol was included on lists as items that were subject to taxation in Moorish territories. As much as their religion prohibited it, the Muslim rulers of they day were equally pleased to tax and drink it. Even more remarkable is the fact that the Moors were accredited for having introduced the technique of distilling. In fact, the Spanish word for the still (alambique) is Arabic in origin; as is the English and Spanish word, “alcohol”.
After the Reconquest of Andalucía by the Christians at the beginning of the 16th century, the Catholic Monarchs who visited Málaga were so keen on the fabulous sweet wines that they took the first known measure to protect the regional product. On 12 January 1502, at the request of the viticulturists and vintners of the region, and under the auspices of Los Señores de Las Viñas de Málaga (Gentlemen of the Vineyards of Málaga) otherwise known as the Association of Winegrowers, the Catholic Monarchs granted a Royal Charter on the restriction and exploitation of wine making in the city of Málaga. This royal charter would in effect become Málaga’s first bylaws relating to wine, and thus established the vintners’ legal rights and commercial privileges. On 30 November of the same year, another Royal Charter was granted, thereby ratifying the former, which gave the residents of Málaga rights to land on which to plant vines. In 1513, Doña Juana de Castilla ratified these rights, as did Phillip III in 1608.
These very important legal, societal, commercial and economic reforms and advancements in the sector came about just as wine started to become fashionable abroad, particularly in the UK and North America. Málaga was a hugely productive wine region, and during its heyday of the 17th, 18th and early 19th centuries, it was Spain’s second-largest wine region. A fascinating anecdote of the popularity that Málaga wine was having all over the world during the 18th century comes from the Tsarina and Empress of Russia, Catherine II, after being immensely impressed with a gift of some boxes of Málaga wine from Spain’s Ambassador to Moscow in 1791. So smitten was she with the sweet tasting stuff, she decreed that any Málaga wine arriving to her Empire should be exempt of any tax. By the early to middle 19th century, the production and exploitation of Málaga wines reached unprecedented heights. The port of Málaga was virtually the gateway to all the countries of Europe and the Americas, with production reaching 14,000,000 litres of wine per annum. By 1856, Málaga wines were dominating international markets, with wines and liqueurs accounting for 25% of Málaga’s economic output, and 40% of the food sector, making the province the country’s leading producer.
At the height of the viticulture boom, there were said to be around 14,000 wine presses in the province of Málaga alone, a scenario that enticed many British merchants to move to the area. However, the Málaga wine industry, like many other wine regions in Europe, was devastated by the numerous vine-specific plagues, such as phylloxera and mildew, that decimated vineyards during the middle to late 19th century. The vineyards were heavily affected and rendered virtually unproductive, leading to a huge fall in output and a severely curtailed supply. Furthermore, the dramatic losses of the industry were further exacerbated by a sudden switch in international tastes towards dry wine which eventually sent the region into rapid decline.
In 1900, the Reglamento de la Associación Gremial de Criadores Exportadores de Vino de Málaga (Regulation of the Trade Union Association of Growers and Exporters of Málaga Wine) was published and grew in stature to lay the foundation for further improvements and reforms of the industry. The name “Málaga” was registered as a brand in 1924, and a Denominación de Origen (Designation of Origin, DO) Málaga was created soon after in 1933. In recognition of the number of quality vineyards and wineries being established around Ronda in the 1990s, in 2001 the DO Sierras de Málaga was added to the scope of the Consejo Regulador (Regulatory Council). The Malaga region now has three DOs: DO Málaga, DO Sierras de Málaga, and DO Pasas de Málaga which relates specifically to its exquisite raisins produced exclusively from the Moscatel Morisco and Moscatel Alejandría varieties.
The Axarquía wine region and its wines
Did you know that the Axarquía region has been producing top quality wines donkeys years before La Rioja and El Ribero del Duero entered the fray as the modern hallmarks of wine in Spain? Subsequently, it can boast of having one of the longest traditions of winemaking in Spain ever since the Phoenicians planted the first vines here 2,500 years ago, making it one of the oldest viticultural regions in Europe.
The Málaga Designation of Origin vineyards are found in five distinct geographical enclaves within the province. These geographical enclaves that are typically hilly are the Axarquía, Montes de Málaga, Zona Norte, Manilva, and Serranía de Ronda. Each of these regions is characterised by differing topography, climate and soil which all impart subtle influences on the final taste of the wine. Of these five regions, the most important of all for wine and raisin production is the Axarquía.
The Axarquía has had for a very long time significant renown for its marvellous wines. When the Phoenicians first established vineyards in this region in 600 BC, it started off as a deep brown, rich, raisiny wine and was originally called Xarabal Malaguii, meaning “Málaga syrup”, and was very sweet indeed. Nowadays, the traditional sweet dessert wines (DO Malaga) are produced mainly from the white grape variety of Moscatel, and also Pedro Ximénez – the former comprising Moscatel de Alejandría and Moscatel Morisco sub-varieties. These varieties produce a large and very aromatic grape that is rich in sugar content and responsible for imparting distinct aromas of honey, orange blossoms, and fresh sweet grapes. Other grape varieties sometimes used are Doradilla, Romé (a rare and old grape variety indigenous to the region) and Lairén.
The common grape growing areas in the Axarquía generally lie below the 600 metres’ altitude mark within the geographical confines of the Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama mountain range to the east, the Alta Axarquía upland region to the north, and the Los Montes de Málaga Natural Park to the west. Within this geographical rim, the areas preferred for grape growing are the south-facing slopes of the labyrinth of valleys and hillsides typical of this area.
Practically all of the vineyards in the region are subjected to the predominant soil type that is characterised by partially decomposed slate in association with limestone clay. The nutrient poor soil is typified by frequent surfacing of the underlying bedrock that results in an extremely shallow vertical soil profile; nevertheless, the grapevines thrive in this seemingly complicated and challenging environment. Working in the vineyards is an extremely difficult and awkward affair. Despite the picturesque terracing of the steep hillsides, the challenging gradients of the terrain make the tasks involved in vine cultivation extremely arduous. The gradients often range between 40% – 55%, with some slopes having gradients of 60% and greater, with an absolute height difference of up to 400 m. This is without doubt the single most significant determining factor in this type of cultivation, making any possibility of the mechanization of the cultivation process almost impossible. In fact, mechanisation is but all nonexistent. Consequently, harvesting invariably involves employing the traditional technique of transport by mule or donkey to haul the baskets of grapes up or down the slopes to collection points for processing, an intriguing sight that can usually be seen during the months of August, September and October. Pruning and cut-back of the vines follows the vaso system (bush trained vines), and vine cultivation follows the traditional “dry farming” (no irrigation) technique, both of which adhere to age-old practices and traditions.
As far as the climate of the Axarquía is concerned, it has an average annual temperature of around 16ºC during the day. It is typically hot, dry and sunny, but mellowed by the influence of the proximity of the Mediterranean Sea. It receives moderate rainfall during the winter months with frequently long sunny intervals between showers. These climatic conditions, together with the soil characteristics and the age of the vines normally produces extraordinarily low yields, however, the advantage is that the quality of the grapes is excellent.
The wines and their classifications
DO Malaga wines, popularly called “dessert wines” or “sweet wines”, are made exclusively from white grapes. The two main grape varieties used are Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez, although other varieties such as Chardonnay, Macabeo, Colombard and Savignon Blanc are also used in order to add complexity and character. The Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez grape varieties are inherently naturally sweet grapes which give the wine its unique taste and character. Officially, DO Málaga wines are divided into two broad classifications: unfortified wines and fortified wines. Within the unfortified wine classification, wines can be further categorised into two simple types: sweet wines and dry wines. Following is an explanation of this:
(i) “Vinos tranquilos” – unfortified wines (without the addition of alcohol) including:
Sweet wines:
- “Dulce Natural” (Natural Sweet) and “Vino Naturalmente Dulce” (Naturally Sweet Wine): these are naturally sweet wines produced from an over-ripe Pedro Ximénez or Moscatel grape, where the alcohol content (only from fermentation, not fortification) is greater than 13%. When the grapes are left on the vine to over-ripen in the sun, their sugar content becomes even more concentrated).
- Sweet wines made from sundried grapes (uvas pasificadas): sweetness can also be achieved by picking the already vine-ripened grapes and then drying them in the sun, further concentrating the inherent sugars even more, thus producing very sweet wines. However, this results in a lower yield.
Dry wines:
- Dry wines with up to 15% alcoholic content.
(ii) “Vinos de Licor” – wines fortified with 15% – 22% alcohol which can produce wines that are dry, semidry, semisweet and sweet. These wines are achieved by adding extra alcohol to the initial grape juice (called mosto). This stops the fermentation process, so that the end product is usually a drier wine.
Depending on the vintner’s ambitions and objectives, wines can then be aged in order to add further depth, flavour and complexity. Ageing affects the end product greatly. The longer the ageing, the darker will be the wine’s colour, and ultimately its taste. Ageing produces wines that vary hugely in colour, from the light golden yellow of a six month aged wine to the deep black colour if aged for more than 5 years. Depending on the amount of time that a wine spends in the ageing process, it is classified in the following way:
- Málaga Pálido: maximum aging of 6 months.
- Málaga: aged between 6 and 24 months.
- Málaga Noble: aged between 2 to 3 years.
- Málaga Añejo: aged between 3 to 5 years.
- Málaga Trasañejo: aged for over 5 years.
The ageing of the wine can be achieved in two ways: through natural oxidation or by adding syrup to the finished wine. The syrup is essentially a wine must that has been boiled over a direct fire or bain-marie. The more syrup or ageing to which the wine is subjected, the darker the finished product, and classified as follows:
- “Dorado” (Golden): without the addition of syrup. Colour is provided solely from ageing. Wines range in colour from golden to amber.
- “Rojo dorado” (Red golden): addition of up to 5% syrup. Wines range in colour from amber to dark amber with reddish-golden highlights.
- “Oscuro” (Brown): addition of 5 to 10% syrup. Wines range in colour from dark amber to dark mahogany.
- “Color” (Colour): addition of 10 to 15% syrup. Wines range in colour from dark mahogany to ebony.
- “Black or Dunkel”: addition of more than 15% of “Colour Syrup”. Wines range in colour from ebony to black.
In addition to this, certain wines may then receive additional names based on their preparation and organoleptic characteristics. For example, dry wines can be named “Dry Pale” or “Pale Dry”, while sweet wines can be named Naturalmente Dulce (Naturally Sweet), Dulce Natural (Natural Sweet), Tierno (Soft) and Maestro (Master); or by applying the terms Dulce Crema (Sweet Cream) or Cream, Pale Cream and Sweet.
Visit to Sayalonga – yet another quaint but interesting little white village of the Axarquía
Today’s excursion gives you an opportunity to have some rest and relaxation, but also some very delicious fun. The highlight of the day will be a sensorial experience at a local wine bodega where you will venture into the exquisite world of fine Málaga wines and superb local gastronomy and haute cuisine. The wines of Málaga are certainly quite unique and special, and there are many bodegas in the province that produce some exceptional wines that have the honourable distinction of being served in some of the best restaurants in the world. Although Málaga is already quite famous for its dessert wines, it is acquiring a growing renown for its magnificent table wines too. This is wine tourism in the Axarquía with a difference.
The first stop of the day is to the small but interesting village of Sayalonga. Like Frigiliana, Sayalonga has an interesting history. To illustrate and promote this, the Ayuntamiento established the “Museo Morisco” (Moorish Museum) which has a very informative display of exhibits showcasing the history and culture of the village. After visiting the museum, we will embark on a short tour of the village to see some other curiosities including, among other interesting sight, the “Iglesia de Santa Catalina” (Church of Santa Catalina), the “cementerio redondo” (round cemetery), and the peculiar “Callejón de la Alcuza” (Alcuza Alley).
Hillside walk and visit to vineyard and bodega
To begin working up an appetite in anticipation of our arrival at the bodega, we leave Sayalonga and begin a short but very enjoyable walk up the valley to the bodega. As we walk along the hillsides of this beautiful grape growing region, you will be able to admire the views of the steeply sloping hillsides cultivated with tropical orchards, olives, and of course, grapes. This highly acclaimed bodega is located in a specific geographical area highly favoured by the indigenous grape varieties which has contributed to making the wines of this region so famous. Set within sight of the Mediterranean sea and in the characteristically hilly terrain in the heart of the Axarquía’s famous wine growing region, the vines enjoy the perfect balance between generous winter rains and long, hot, dry summers; the scorching heat softened by Mediterranean sea breezes. The bodega masterfully harnesses the natural enthusiasm and energy of the vines that flourish in the impoverished slate soils, and combines this with modern vinification techniques to produce an exciting range of fresh, delicate white, red and rosé wines; both dry and sweet.
On arrival, you will be greeted by the owners and led on an information-packed, grand guided tour of the vineyard and its facilities. You will be taken onto the hillsides to engage in a discussion of the grapevines, variety of grapes used, climate, history and development of the bodega, cultivation process, and characteristics of the terroir. You will also be shown the production area, machine room and learn of the wine-making process in all of its fascinating forms and complexity.
The bodega’s wines are quintessentially Malaga wines, that is to say, D.O. Málaga y Sierras de Málaga. Some of the age-old, traditional techniques are still maintained as part of the bodega’s wine making repertoire, such as the sunning of the grapes in order to amplify their inherent sweetness. Together with the fantastic wines on offer is a mouth-watering menu that is prepared and presented in a modern style of creative cooking, crafted by an aspiring and ambitious local chef using only fresh, primarily local ingredients. You will enjoy the delicious wines of the region and the fresh, daily sourced local produce for one of the best gastronomic experiences in the Axarquía.
Visit to an historical bodega in Málaga
After our lovely lunch, we will set off to Málaga city for a visit to the oldest and most impressive wine bar in the historical city centre. The bodega was established in 1840 and preserves most of its original decor. Around the 1850s it was awarded a Royal Warrant of Appointment to Her Majesty the (Spanish) Queen, Isabel II, which it still holds to this day, a privilege that is depicted on the label of its splendid Moscatel Trasañejo “Isabel II”. Well worth a try! The bodega is like no other and has changed little over the years. With its age-old oak counters and wooden casks, the wine is pulled using Cuban/Russian taps that date from before the Second World War. Its fixtures, fittings, furniture, unique style and seductive selection of magnificent Málaga wines will certainly take you away to a far away place.