Frigiliana Village and Castle Ruins

Historical background

Frigiliana, without doubt, is one of the prettiest, best conserved and most enchanting and representative examples of the Andalucian “pueblos blancos” (white villages). It is also one of the best conserved examples of original Moorish architecture to be found in the province of Málaga. This is not wanton opinion, but a well-respected fact attested by the numerous awards and accolades that the village has acquired over the years. The recognition and status that Frigiliana has attained is demonstrative of the successful and magnificent preservation and conservation of its historical, architectural and arqueological patrimony. Its fascinating and momentous history certainly reaffirms this, and provides a compelling context, further adding credence to the historical and cultural importance of the patrimony of the village.

During the 14th and 15th centuries, Frigiliana maintained an important administrative position over numerous other villages and towns in the Axarquía, having had jurisdiction over many much larger towns and villages in the region, even as far away as Periana. Furthermore, it would be neglectful not to mention that, during this time, considered to be its most opulent and prosperous period, Frigiliana held important economic and political status in the region, proving to be a major centre of commerce and trade as a consequence of the esteemed quality of its products in both local and international markets, the productivity of its arable land, and the exploitation of the profuse natural resources of its immediate mountain environment.

The events of Frigiliana’s past has left an important historical legacy and a fascinating anthropological record during the course of its history. By far, the most extensive and pervasive of these events was the Moorish presence during more than eight centuries (711 – 1569), which certainly had a profound and long-lasting influence on all aspects of life, even to this present day. Frigiliana is also known as the “Village of the Three Cultures”, which refers to the period when Jews, Muslims and Christians co-existed in the village.

For centuries, the people of Frigiliana, as in the other villages of the Axarquía, depended almost exclusively on agriculture for subsistence or making a living. Some entrepreneurially minded and brave individuals accepted the risks of running the muleteer routes traversing the mountains to Granada and other inland territories, transporting highly perishable coastal produce, such as fish, tropical fruit, vegetables and sugar. On an industrial scale, field or factory work was available in the sugar industry, as most available flat land that was suitable for sugarcane cultivation was more often than not employed exclusively to that task. To that end, there were numerous sugar factories all along the Malaga coastline, of which no less than eleven were located in the municipality of Frigiliana alone. Most were dedicated entirely to sugar production, while others managed sugar and flour. Moreover, there were numerous smaller mills dotted around the countryside that operated on a smaller scale. In Nerja there were four large sugar factories, the most impressive of which is the ruined, though impressive, remains of the abandoned sugar factory of “San Joaquín” that still stands between Nerja and Maro, and is a splendid example of 19th century industrialisation in the Axarquía.

Up until the 1980s and 1990s, agriculture maintained its top position as the dominant economic force in Frigiliana. In the 1990s, northern europeans slowly began to take an interest in Frigiliana and Nerja as the ideal places for owning a holiday home and as a place to spend retirement. Spain, and especially Andalucía, with its strikingly cheap property, low cost of goods and services, lower cost of living, good infrastructure and communications, good food and friendly people, and an excellent winter climate relative to the northern european standard, set it up to become the most sought after destination for holiday makers, property investors and retiring northern european expats.

Curiously, despite having acquired a somewhat large foreign resident population over the years, not to mention the incessant influx of foreigners coming to Frigilina and Nerja either as tourists or seeking a more permanent abode, not to mention the plethora of apartments and countryside villas that are let for holiday or long term rentals, Frigiliana still remains, to a very large degree, an agricultural based economy with strong rural traditions and a sense of community.

Walk description

Frigiliana is a labyrinth of zigzagging streets and cobblestone lanes, darkened tunnels, obscure passageways, and inviting cul-de-sacs that often end in pretty courtyards or ornately decorated patios. You will be intrigued at every turn as you weave your way up, along, through, down and around a fascinating maze of limewashed stone and adobe houses.

One of the most conspicuous historical buildings in Frigiliana and the first one that most visitors see on arrival is the Palace of the Counts of Frigiliana (El Palacio de los Condes de Frigiliana), a Renaissance palace built during the sixteenth century, which was later converted to a sugar mill and which continues to this day in full operation as such. It is the last remaining sugarcane factory still in operation in Europe. Known locally simply as “El Ingenio”, its proper commercial name is The Cane Honey Factory Our Lady Carmen (La Fábrica de Miel de Caña Nuestra Señora del Carmen). The walls of the front façade and other structural elements were built with stones derived from the destroyed Arab castle of Castillo Lízar (Lízar Castle), the Arab fortress that once served as an important defensive structure and refuge for the village folk during times of conflict or attack from opportunistic marauding bands of corsairs coming up from the coast.

The remains of the ninth century Lízar Castle sit atop a prominent hill that overlooks the village, and is also the site of The Lízar reservoir (El pozo Lízar). The Lízar reservoir is part of a complex water channeling system that was developed by the Moors to bring potable water to the village from its source many kilometres away in the high sierra.

Night market at the Three Cultures festival held during August.

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Next to the sugar factory is the old Casa Cuartel de la Guardia Civil (Guardia Civil barracks and quarters). This barracks held an important strategic position in Frigiliana during the Spanish civi, as did those in the other villages in the Axarquía that also bordered the Natural Park of Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama. Establishing a prominent and consistent military presence in every town gave General Franco the upper hand during the long period of confrontations and fighting against the Franco dictatorship by the antifrancoist guerrillas, known locally as the maquis, during the 1930s, 40s and 50s.

Another of the most prominent landmarks in Frigiliana is The Church of San Antonio de Padua (La Iglesia de San Antonio of Padua). The church dates to the sixteenth century and is an architectural statement and religious symbol of celebration of the successful reconquest of Frigiliana from the Moors by the Christians. Not far from the church square, round a corner, can be found The Old Fountain – La Fuente Vieja,  an exemplary water fountain and trough commissioned by Count Íñigo Manrique de Lara, fifth lord of Frigiliana, in 1640.

A curious little building, The Shrine of Ecce Homo (La Ermita de Ecce Homo), which dates from the 18th century, is a representation of the tradition of the Christian Barroc celebrations in Frigiliana, and has a valuable sculpture in the Neo-Baroque style. Right above the shrine of Ecce Homo is the olive mill (La Almazara). The mill comes to life during the winter only when the olives are ripe and ready for picking, and are brought in from the surrounding countryside for pressing between November – February. Another building of historic value is The Shrine of Saint Sebastian (La Ermita de San Sebastián), which was originally built in 1791 but was unfortunately destroyed during the civil war, but was later reconstructed and restored as a memorial to the original structure in 2003.

The Royal Granary – El Pósito Real, built in the eighteenth century, is identifiable from its exterior on the Calle Real (The Royal Street), by its original, signature red brick arches. After a series of abysmally unproductive years, The Granary was ordered built by the Counts in 1767 in order to safeguard stockpiles of cereal crops procured during surplus years and to therefore mitigate the effects of any possible future crop failures.

Certainly, a visit to the Mudejar district or Moorish quarter (El Barrio Morisco or Barribarto), located high up at the top of the village, is a gratifying experience. The adventure and excitement of finding one’s way there through the bewildering array of the many prettily painted doors and windows contrasting beautifuly against the bright limewashed walls of the houses, is well worth the effort. One of the favoured routes for getting to the Mudejar district is via either the Calle Zacatín or Calle Hernando El Darra, two streets that feature the best examples of popular architecture, and along which one is sure to be charmed by the characteristically exquisite penchant of the Frigilianenses to lavishly embellish the facade and exterior of their houses with all variety of flowering plants.

The village church in front of the main square.

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The grand and aristocratic Farming House (Casa del Apero), whose name belies its grandeur, is an impressive 17th century construction that was built at the behest of the Counts of Frigiliana, and was subsequently owned and operated by the same. Observing its architecture, design and layout, one might be able to appreciate that it had in fact been built to provide work and storage rooms for tools, equipment and agricultural products and accoutrements, and to provide living quarters and stables for the many workers and beasts of burden that were employed to run the various industrial and agricultural interests of the Counts in and around the village. Quite fittingly, it provides a permanent location for the Frigiliana Museum of Archaeology (Museo Arqueológico de Frigiliana), with magnificent displays of remarkable pieces such as a skull from the Neolithic, Phoenician amphorae, a Moorish dagger and medieval coins. It also provides a location for the Frigiliana Tourist Office (Oficina de Turismo de Frigiliana) and a modest but well appointed library. It is also the location of the Cultural Centre (Centro Cultural).

We finish our tour at our starting point in the centre of the village, in front of the old Guardia Civil Barracks and Cane Honey Factory. There are many excellent places that offer lunch in the immediate vicinity. Depending on the circumstances and personal preferences of each person, we can enjoy a group lunch together before returning to Nerja.